Closer to the Sky

From Shangri-la/Zhongdian, our object was to get as close to Tibet as we could without crossing the border and in doing so, we got closer to the sky. We embarked on yet another bus ride, this time along winding switchbacks up and up and over and beyond countless mountains. Mountains that at one turn were dry and arid with sparse scrubby brush -- the deserts of mountains -- and at the next were covered in dense pine forests, interspersed with bright flashes of wildflowers. A new scenic surprise awaited with every turn of the road (and sometimes the stomach). Nestled among the mountains, Tibetan villages, monasteries and stupas and the occasional green of pastures, fields and paddies.

For me, many of the places we've visited are marked less by sights we've seen than by people we've met. In Deqin, I will remember the girl at the hostel next to ours, from whom we sought advice time and time again. My favourite moment perhaps was after we called "Keith", an English-speaking local who had posted a flyer offering guide services and recommendations for local activities. He recommended we head over to see the "old city" but when we filled the girl in on our plan, she erupted in laughter. Shaking her head at us, "There's no old city here!" and turning to her friend in disbelief, "They're trying to go see the old city!" Turns out the "old city" was a misnomer for a street of old houses, but we enjoyed the wandering and ultimately found our way to more town dancing, children playing and the grannies and daddies taking care of them.

Deqin will also be remembered for the restaurant with the fastest service and best fried fish ever. Compared to relaxed Shangri-la where each dish and drink is made and brought to the table one at a time, our food at this restaurant in Deqin was on the table before we had barely finished ordering it in the kitchen. So quick, in fact, that we had no opportunity to change our minds and thus had to go back the next day to try everything we wanted (namely the fish). And believe me, it was well worth it -- even the curious stares of the chefs checking on our progress.

We also thought we had discovered an establishment where you can hang out without ordering, but no, while it may be Shangri-la county, it's not that magical of a place. Nevertheless, our teapot was kept ever filled while we sat and played cards and no one ever pressured or even asked to take our order for only a minimal fee. Who's complaining?